NFS Pro Street - Tuning Guide
The Tuning Guide
Our user "Raymond Chevalier" from our NFS-Planet board created a tuning-guide for Need for Speed ProStreet, which digs deep into fine-tuning of the cars in the game. Read here, how you should tune your cars in which game mode:
Since the "physics" of the game don't always correspond to those of real cars, I invested some time to figure out, which parameters of the upgrade parts effect in which results.
Unlike the "tooltips" ingame, I try to explain what difficulties could be solved by various settings.
Since a car sways to the front when braking and other way round to the back while accelerating, the running gear of a GRIP-car should be tuned to handle many accelerations and brakings while staying controllable ;)
Therefore the shock-pressure-level has to be as high (hard) as possible.
To not loose traction at the relieved axle, the rebound of the shocks must be soft enough.
Put their softness opposite to the stiffnes of the pressure-level.
The springs work together with the heigth of the car and should be tuned for every single track.
Set the springs as hard as the track allows you to.
The lower the car glides, the harder the springs have to be.
In addition to this, the settings for the shock-pressure never may be softer than the relating spring! It may though be harder..
The camber is pretty sensible for a quite negative camber allows you to take tight curves faster but leads to hardly controllable steering-prolongation.
Do you have the impression that you stopped turning your wheel but the car still is steering into the curve, your camber-setting is too negative!
Those are the basics for every GRIP-CAR.
Depending on the type of drive-design (front-wheel-drive, rear-wheel-drive) the swaybars must be set different:
RWD: the rear swaybar less stiff than the front one
FWD: the rear swaybar more stiff than the front one
AWD: equal settings
Do not set the swaybars too stiff, for that leads to sudden oversteering in fast curves!
The well balanced handling now can be smoothed by the tire-pressure.
Less pressure on the front tires fight understeering, while oversteering can be worked against with less pressure on the rear ones.
Even in GRIP-mode the TOE should never be set to a positive setting, because the car sways like a halfempty tanker after every curve!
Slightly negative setting relieves the driver and spares the steering wheel / the keyboard of the otherwise unnerved player ;)
The caster helps the wheels getting back to straight trail but to the cost of agility..
Here also the setting should be made for each track you're gonna ride.
On tight tracks with rare straights the caster may be put to neutral setting while on fast tracks with long straights the caster must be more and more positive.
The steering ratio must be adjusted to the players likes (and to his hardware of course ^^)
It's recommended to reduce the intensity at the hardware first before reducing it at the tuning, because the game does not have priority on translating the input devices.. therefor on most average gamer-PCs there is a heavy steering delay.
The settings for a car for speed-challenges do not vary very much from the grip ones, but on speed-challenges you rarely have to brake - and if, then never in curves.
This allows a less hard pressure.level at the front-shocks, offering better traction at smaller bumps in the roads surface.
Generally the toe should be set negative, the steering ratio negative and the caster absolutely positive!
Does the car run out of fast curves, give it a LITTLE negative camber - but not too much, to prevent the above described behavior.
There are speed-tracks, where cars learn to fly...
You could slow down enough to not lift of... OR tune your speed-car that way it stays controllable after the landing.
Stage 3 suspensions are not really able to completely supress the hopping of the car after a landing, but with fine tunings the GummiBear at least hops there where you want it to ;)
Does the car sway over the road after landing, the rear shocks should be set a bit softer.
Does it hop to the front and back, give a higher pressure-level to the front shocks.
Generally a speed-vehicle should not be set too low because the shocks should take the bumps and not the floor panel ;)
The most important thing first:
NEVER put a suspension higher than stage 2 to a drag car (except for wheelies)!
Ahigher level suspension almost inevadable leeds to a wheelie, what costs a lot of time for a drag.
(I know, this has nothing to do with reality... but take a look at the introduction ;) )
If necessary at all, a bit harder settings to the shocks are recommended with their opposite rebound settings.
Set the caster absolute positive and the steering ratio absolute indirect.
For good traction lower the pressure to the rear tires - for less rolling resistance and better directional stability pump up the front tires.
I cannot give any recommendations for drift-tuning, because everyone has a different drift-style and the setting differ totally with the style.
Soft rear: better control
Hard rear: more likely to start drifting
Less pressure to the front tires would extremely highten the control .... in reality... in this game I could not notice this very important thing :(
Before changing the ignition of a motor, one should watch the normal rpm-behavior while driving.
Does the motor rotate in the high ranges most of the time and you want it to have even a bit mor power there, the ignition-time has to be set earlier, whilest it has to be later if you need more power in the lower ranges.
The boost start determins the power-addition to the lower rotation range, while the boost end does add power to the upper range.
If you only want to have the most power in every stage, both are best set to max - but if you ever had to drive a GT2 or some wild horse like that, you may be happy to first get it going and not to drift everytime you just look at the throttle ;)
Lower the boost start and it becomes much more controllable.
The total-power is not averaged in the game but is taken by the maximum.
So if you want to gain higher scores, do not highten the boost!
The possible times to ride rarely get that much better like the demand lowers.
The NOS-flow should be adjusted to the needs.
High flow gives you an enormous torque-boost, but only for a short time. So sometimes it may be the better choice to get a not so extreme boost but for a longer time ;)
Generally brakes should be set to a 70/30 front/rear bias.
Nowadays nearly every car has got ABS, so the braking pressure always can be chosen as high as possible.
Again it's a question of how the car shall be used.
Does the car go on highspeed almost all the time, the highest 2-3 gears should be adjusted near, while the lower ones lead to there straight.
Is medium speed the working field of the car, only the first gear should be "leading" to the others that are to be distributed tight.
Tight distribution means the lowest of the tight gears has to be long, while the highest of them is shortened.
By the way: it does not make sense lengthening the gears to reach a theoretical top speed of 250 mph if the necessary power lacks for that!
The total racetime is pretty much better when the last gear can be fully used by the own power.
A few words about the "upgrade-parts":
Some cars can only be disposed with stage 4 parts - others can't really win an apple without... here it's up to you to figure out what works best :D
Turbos deliver a bit more pressure than superchargers, but they need some time to build it after each shift or decel.
So in grip-mode and especially in DRAG (!!!) never use a turbo, but ONLY superchargers!